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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.